ENGELBERG

If your focus is piste skiing, you’ll exhaust the possibilities—including those in the Brunni area on the sunny south side of the valley and the smaller Bannalp—in about three days. If your focus is off-piste, you’re in for a treat.

Engelberg is an explorer’s mountain, with endless possibilities for a short traverse or hikes away off the Klein Titlis or Jochstock, the peaks served by the highest lifts.

Most of the best terrain faces north or north-ish, leading to good snow preservation even if it’s tracked up. The high altitude of the resort’s upper reaches can turn a 20-centimetre mid-mountain snowfall into 40-centimetres of blower on the right exposures. This means that going as high as possible, as early as possible, is never a bad idea.

Engelberg’s Big Five lift-accessible off-piste descents include the Sulz, Wendenlücke, Steinberg, Galtiberg and Laub (arguably the world’s greatest resort-based powder run). Each has its own geological character and vertical, and all but the Laub are best done with a guide (though it, too, benefits from someone with experience in both safety and line choice).

Descending the Titlis Glacier below the tramline is a thrill that requires caution due to the receding ice and yawning crevasses. Again, a guide helps.

As if Engelberg’s frontcountry weren’t enough, the backcountry of this ski-touring paradise includes a High Five—itineraries that lead you away from the resort; some—like the Urner Haute Route between Engelberg and Andermatt—include alpine huts. Best to check with a guiding service regarding these.

The climate-change-induced lean snow years of the past two decades in Switzerland have also affected Engelberg, but not as severely as other places, making it a good choice when surrounding areas are dry.

While the mountain’s ten restaurants offer decent fare, three stand out: Lago Torbido at Trübsee mid-station (1,800 m) offers Italian classics and fine wines. At the resort’s summit (3,020 m), Panorama-Restaurant Titlis serves up Swiss classics, a good selection of wine, and breathtaking views. Rustic Skihütte Stand (2,428 m) also does “Swiss” well, and diners just in from a storm can warm themselves at ceramic stoves; in better weather, a sun terrace offers views of the Titlis Glacier.

The Bar at Ski Lodge Engelberg anchors the town’s après social life, but its restaurant, Brasserie Konrad, is also top-notch. Named after the town’s founder, Konrad von Sellenbüren, it gathers inspiration from the surrounding Alps and the hotelier’s Swedish roots, highlighting local produce, cheeses and the region's best culinary secrets. Konrad also has a notable wine list.

Other drink-worthy options include the Old Monk Bar, the Yucatan and the Core Irish Pub for those missing their Guinness.

For classic chalet surroundings, top service and authentic Swiss fondue (and pizza), it’s hard to beat Alpenclub—though both Schweizerhof and Titlis at H+ Hotel take a good run at it. The sunny afternoon terrace at Yucatan is an institution for casual dining on young and creative cuisine. More exotic but continually top-rated, Spice Bazaar serves a mix of Indian/Asian that doesn’t step on the town’s other fusion newbie, Hess Asia Restaurant. Check out Al Monastero and Bierlialp for excellent pizza and other continental specialties. Outside town and a cable car ride away, Bergrestaurant Fürenalp garners rave reviews for food, service, and stunning views.

Roastery Engelberg roasts, packs, and supplies coffee to local businesses, but their coffee bar and the impeccable papeterie and bookshop are open to the public. Bäckerei Konditorei Café restaurant offers an excellent selection of sweet and savoury goods baked fresh daily. In the monastery’s Schaukäseri Kloster, you’ll find a surfeit of both in-house and locally made alpine cheeses, homemade yogurt, and even whey-based cosmetics.

Geny Hess’s Engelberg genealogy dates to the 1600s and his family-run hotel was a village landmark from 1884-2001. When it was demolished, Geny transferred his enormous wine cellar into the street-level Hess Selection, where his expertise, tastings and events now make for Switzerland’s best—and most enigmatic—wine shop.