Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
Feature
9 min

Ski and Surf in the Arctic

Why Lofoten is one of the most unique
ski destinations on the planet.
Words and photos by
Mattias Fredriksson
March 21, 2023

Spring arrived overnight in the Arctic. A few days ago, it was still frigid in this far-flung Norwegian archipelago, with powder skiing right down to the ocean.

Now it’s 10 degrees Celsius, and we’ve gone from checking avalanche beacons and testing for wind slabs to looking out for wet slides and the leg-chattering melt-freeze effect.

Ski touring in Norway’s Lofoten Islands feels like travelling through an Arctic version of the Lord of the Rings. In abrupt beauty, the Atlantic Ocean meets the rugged granite shores, and wild and craggy mountains rise directly from the sea. You might even catch yourself looking for dragons.

Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
1/3
1/3

Almost anywhere you go on Lofoten Islands, Planet Earth-worthy landscapes surround you: Chad Sayers, Anna Segal and David Kantermo ski touring above Austnesfjorden.

Read more

Almost anywhere you go on Lofoten Islands, Planet Earth-worthy landscapes surround you: Chad Sayers, Anna Segal and David Kantermo ski touring above Austnesfjorden.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
2/3
2/3

Chad Sayers heads toward the fjord while descending from Store Kvittind (696 m), one of many stunning peaks with excellent road access.

Read more

Chad Sayers heads toward the fjord while descending from Store Kvittind (696 m), one of many stunning peaks with excellent road access.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
3/3
3/3

Spectacular sunset in Raftsundet, near Digermulen, a small village on the island of Hinnøya.

Read more

Spectacular sunset in Raftsundet, near Digermulen, a small village on the island of Hinnøya.

Read more

The spectacular and otherworldly scenery is enough to offset our leg-burning ascent as Chad Sayers leads our pack upward. I follow, with David Kantermo, Anna Segal and filmer Elias Lundh moving close behind. It’s my third ski trip to Lofoten, but my friends are exploring the islands’ cinematic grandeur for the first time.

Off the northwestern coast of the Norwegian Sea, the Lofoten Islands are home to the oldest settlements above the Arctic Circle. Stone Age people came here 6000 years ago for hunting and fishing. Fishing is still vital, but during the last decade, the area’s popularity has gone viral, and tourism has become one of the most significant economic drivers. On the 68th parallel north, Lofoten’s ever-lasting summer light draws dedicated adventurers from around the globe, including those looking for a truly unique spring ski experience.

The Lofoten Range is only 160 kilometers long — formed by volcanic rocks older than northern Europe — pressed, heated, and formed over three billion years. Yet even if the mountains here are steep, they often start gently at a beach or a meadow not far from a road, so there is good access for uphill travelers.

Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
1/1
1/1

Anna Segal on a quick domestic flight above Austnesfjorden.

Read more

Anna Segal on a quick domestic flight above Austnesfjorden.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
1/1
1/1

Traditional practice of cod fishing and production of stockfish dates back over 1000 years on the Lofoten Islands and remains highly important.

Read more

Traditional practice of cod fishing and production of stockfish dates back over 1000 years on the Lofoten Islands and remains highly important.

Read more

Thirty minutes after starting up the mountain known as Store Kvittind, we rip skins on a small summit ridge. Peaks surround us, but it’s the water that leaves us speechless. The late light shines on Store Kvittind’s east face as a sparkling fjord stretches below, pointing its crooked finger toward the ocean.

It’s well after 8 p.m. when we point our skis toward the sea. The snow is so creamy that I feel like I’m cutting through soft butter as I lay down turns behind Chad and Anna. We exit a steep pitch into an open bowl, and giant snow crystals spray from their ski tails, making it hard to see. I work my way further right to get a clean line, and I notice the smell of the sea as it rises up the mountain to greet us. We are back at our vehicles 20 minutes later, and the sun has just dipped behind the mountains. We crack a beer and cheer on our epic experience in the last golden rays.

Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
1/4
1/4

Unstad was discovered in the mid-sixties when a few young Norwegians made their surfboards — entirely based on a photo from The Beach Boys album “Surfin’ Safari.” Chad Sayers has surfed worldwide, but this was his first time in Norwegian waters.

Read more

Unstad was discovered in the mid-sixties when a few young Norwegians made their surfboards — entirely based on a photo from The Beach Boys album “Surfin’ Safari.” Chad Sayers has surfed worldwide, but this was his first time in Norwegian waters.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
2/4
2/4

Lofoten is world-famous for cold-water surfing, and the right break at Unstad is what the locals, pro surfers, and visiting skiers and snowboarders rave about. Local surfer and snowboarder Joacim Nyhaugen captured during a late April session.

Read more

Lofoten is world-famous for cold-water surfing, and the right break at Unstad is what the locals, pro surfers, and visiting skiers and snowboarders rave about. Local surfer and snowboarder Joacim Nyhaugen captured during a late April session.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
3/4
3/4

Anna Segal and David Kantermo enjoy the vibes at Unstad – in the comfort of their down jackets – while Chad Sayers catches a few last waves.

Read more

Anna Segal and David Kantermo enjoy the vibes at Unstad – in the comfort of their down jackets – while Chad Sayers catches a few last waves.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
4/4
4/4

After hours in the cold water at Unstad, Chad Sayers slowly gets his frozen fingers functioning.

Read more

After hours in the cold water at Unstad, Chad Sayers slowly gets his frozen fingers functioning.

Read more

Mountain guide Seth Hobby grew up near Seattle in the Pacific Northwest, developing a climbing addiction he would ultimately pursue worldwide. After an expedition to Nepal, he met Maren, a charismatic Norwegian woman. After a few long-distance years, Seth followed his heart and moved to Norway in 2007. The couple eventually got married and moved to Kabelvåg, a small fishing village on the Lofotens with less than 2 000 inhabitants.

They predicted the demand for guided ski touring and, in 2021, founded Northern Alpine Guides. The company has been growing steadily ever since. During the three-month ski season, they employ 10 to 12 guides and offer ski-and-stay packages at Nyvågar Rorburhotel — The Lofoten Ski Lodge — a picturesque spot on the sea on the outskirts of Kabelvåg.

“We have about 2 000-2 500 ski touring guests annually, mostly foreigners,” says Seth while we enjoy a cold beer on the patio after skiing.

Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
1/4
1/4

There are couloirs and snow strips everywhere you go on Lofoten Islands. David Kantermo finds a diagonal splitter between the granite near Sundklakkstraumen bridge, the connector between the islands of Gimsøya and Vestvågøya.

Read more

There are couloirs and snow strips everywhere you go on Lofoten Islands. David Kantermo finds a diagonal splitter between the granite near Sundklakkstraumen bridge, the connector between the islands of Gimsøya and Vestvågøya.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
2/4
2/4

Anna Segal, David Katermo and Chad Sayers are taking it all in at Uttakleiv, one of Lofoten Islands’ most beautiful beaches.

Read more

Anna Segal, David Katermo and Chad Sayers are taking it all in at Uttakleiv, one of Lofoten Islands’ most beautiful beaches.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
3/4
3/4

Sitting in the line-up at Unstad, we kept looking at the big snowy mountain around the corner, called Himmelstinden, thinking, “Why don’t we go skiing there tomorrow?” And so, we did! Chad Sayers is finding the flow on the snow strips.

Read more

Sitting in the line-up at Unstad, we kept looking at the big snowy mountain around the corner, called Himmelstinden, thinking, “Why don’t we go skiing there tomorrow?” And so, we did! Chad Sayers is finding the flow on the snow strips.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
4/4
4/4

Anna Segal and Chad Sayers enjoy the views from Himmelstinden, high above the beautiful Uttakleiv, where not more than 22 inhabitants live year around.

Read more

Anna Segal and Chad Sayers enjoy the views from Himmelstinden, high above the beautiful Uttakleiv, where not more than 22 inhabitants live year around.

Read more

When I first came here more than ten years ago, I remember meeting the occasional foreign ski tourist, but they were few and far between. Lofoten was different back then — less accessible, and few tourists. Now, it’s evident that the reputation of Lofoten’s unique ski touring experience has spread far beyond its frozen shores. Of course, some locals are unhappy with the change because, like any popular tourist destination, it can be busy during the peak season, which here is during Easter.

This time, however, we weren’t bothered by too many people — there were plenty of mountains to choose between and so much terrain to explore, so we set our skin tracks and found our paradise.

The next day, the clouds hang low, and a light rain prompts us to look for something other than skiing. When Seth tells us about a decent swell at Unstad, Lofoten’s most notable surf spot, we fill up the coffee mugs and drive southwest.

Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
1/1
1/1

All things must dry—even cod. These were captured in Svolvær, the gateway to the Lofoten Islands.

Read more

All things must dry—even cod. These were captured in Svolvær, the gateway to the Lofoten Islands.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
1/1
1/1

Time to send it. The postal flag of Norway was captured on a ferry in Raftsundet.

Read more

Time to send it. The postal flag of Norway was captured on a ferry in Raftsundet.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
1/2
1/2

Mountain guide Seth Hobby grew up near Seattle in the Pacific Northwest but has lived in Norway since 2007. He owns and operates Northern Alpine Guides and Lofoten Ski Lodge with his Norwegian wife, Maren.

Read more

Mountain guide Seth Hobby grew up near Seattle in the Pacific Northwest but has lived in Norway since 2007. He owns and operates Northern Alpine Guides and Lofoten Ski Lodge with his Norwegian wife, Maren.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
2/2
2/2

Henningsvær was first inhabited in 1556, and the coastal village is still alive and well in every respect, even if the fishing activity has declined from what it once was.

Read more

Henningsvær was first inhabited in 1556, and the coastal village is still alive and well in every respect, even if the fishing activity has declined from what it once was.

Read more

Lofoten is world-famous for cold-water surfing, and the left break at Unstad is what the locals, some pro surfers, and visiting skiers and snowboarders rave about. The remote surf spot on Vestvågøy, with snow-capped peaks in the background, is one of the most photographed beaches in Europe.

Unstad was discovered in the mid-sixties when a few young Norwegians made their own surfboards — entirely based on a photo from The Beach Boys album “Surfin’ Safari.” Fast forward, and Unstad is now well-established as a destination surf spot. The scene in the tiny village is growing steadily, with two board shops and a busy coffee shop.

So, after putting on thick winter wet suits, hoodies, and gloves, we join the action and jump into the frigid water. Today, it’s quick and choppy, which is not ideal; however, the surroundings are thrilling, and we have nothing better to do. Mountains tower out of the sea all around us, and surfers catch waves. Watching the scene while bobbing in the middle of it is a pure pleasure. Chad and David, both keen surfers, get some good rides.

Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
1/2
1/2

Anna Segal and Chad Sayers climb a couloir, which we spotted from our breakfast table at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kabelvåg. Then we got a reset towards the end of our trip; we went for it.

Read more

Anna Segal and Chad Sayers climb a couloir, which we spotted from our breakfast table at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kabelvåg. Then we got a reset towards the end of our trip; we went for it.

Read more
Stellar Equipment Stellar Equipment
2/2
2/2

Anna Segal grew up in Australia and was a competitive mogul skier in her youth. She could never imagine visiting places like Lofoten Islands to ski powder. In this splitter, she found some soft snow to enjoy on the last day of the trip.

Read more

Anna Segal grew up in Australia and was a competitive mogul skier in her youth. She could never imagine visiting places like Lofoten Islands to ski powder. In this splitter, she found some soft snow to enjoy on the last day of the trip.

Read more

Post-surf, we enjoy the early evening glow by a warm fire and watch a few locals still ripping on the point break. A fishing boat goes by in the distance, mountains with a few remaining strips of snow surround us, and dark clouds create a moody feeling over the bay.

Lofoten has more surprises for us as winter makes a strong comeback in the next few days, and we get more powder skiing. Twenty centimetres and some wind do their thing, and we happily harvest the gift from above during a few big days of touring. We could not imagine a better way to end a season — and a truly unique ski trip in the Arctic.

Lofoten Life

Watch the movie →

Stellar Equipment
Mattias Fredriksson is a photographer, journalist, and editor-in-chief for Interstellar. For almost 30 years, Fredriksson has documented ski and mountain bike cultures globally. He is a veteran adventure photographer with over 500 cover shots to his name and impressive longevity in the outdoor space. Fredriksson continues to contribute to many publications and photographs global campaigns for commercial clients. He lives in Terrace, British Columbia.
Ski and Surf in the Arctic
You are using an outdated browser. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience.